New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week for fall/winter 2015 was all about deep, rich colors, with designers drawing inspiration from nature and old Hollywood glamour. Stitches has the scoop on two designers who took embellishment to another level on the runway.

Monique Lhuillier’s dresses are always popular at Hollywood red carpets events, so perhaps it’s no surprise that her fall 2015 collection pays tribute to classic silver screen glamour. The runway teemed with swirling gowns of silk charmeuse in silver, gold and rich jewel tones. Many were designed with curve-flattering seam details, evoking the look of 1930s screen sirens.

Details included beautiful beaded patterns embroidered on fur. Bold bugle beads following the lines of the body were a sexy accent on sheer organza dresses. The designer’s intricate lace concoctions were enhanced with color-popping embroidery or crystal and sequin sparkles. Floral motifs in tonal beads and blossom-shaped paillettes embroidered in soft silk lent an elegant, vintage quality to the show.

This Monique Lhuillier bugle-beaded gown is a body-hugging callback to the golden age of the silver screen.

Tonal beading in a stylized floral pattern gives this sheer emerald gown from Monique Lhuillier a vintage flair.

Tip: Using classic embroidery motifs is an easy way to reference vintage looks. Keep designs fresh by updating them with modern colors or materials.

This gray wool Carolina Herrera dress adds interest with a rippling dimensional appliqué detail at the shoulder.

This show-stopping Carolina Herrera gray and black organza gown includes a fringe appliqué, for a fluid feeling.

American fashion icon Carolina Herrera had a river theme running through her show, down to the meandering construction of the runway itself. Herrera employed fabric prints that looked like swirling water, bubbles, waterfowl and river stones.

The embroidery furthered the theme, with thread-and-sequin embroidery resembling metallic river pebbles. Herrera also employed a striking 3-D appliqué technique, evoking rippling water with thin strips of fabric. The highlight of the show was a series of dresses that incorporated raw-edged cut organza and fringe to give the impression of rain droplets.

Tips:Having your base fabric do double-duty as embellishment material reduces production costs. Fabric manipulation is a great way to build texture and volume into a garment.