No matter how nice the suit, you’ll look like a schlub if it doesn’t fit correctly. Here M. Jay Singleton, a men’s style consultant with Urban Squire Club, gives the basics on suit fit.
- Shoulders should lay smoothly, with the seam hitting right where the bone ends.
- Lapels should reach midway between the collar and the shoulder.
- Sleeves should fall about a half inch above the end of shirt cuff.
- Button should close without appearing to burst at the seam.
- Seat should lay smooth against your behind and hang straight.
- Pant should gently drape over the top of your shoe.
- You want an apparent, but minimal break – a small dimple of pant that occurs when your pant lies over your shoes.
No two bodies are the same. Use the tips here as a guide and experiment with what works for you. If it looks good, wear it!
Dress Right For Your Body Type
Wear vertical stripes and go with a one or two button jacket. Have buttons sit lower.
Opt for low-rise pants, so your waistline can sit at your hips.
Opt for lighter colors as they offer width to a long frame.
Go with a jacket with pockets. “It adds visual interest,” says Singleton.
Regular-rise pants are best.
Men With Bigger Midsections
Dark colors and lighter-weight fabrics work well.
Wear solids or vertical stripes.
“Pinstripes draw the eye up and down and detract from the circumference,” says Singleton.
Think two button jackets. Have a tailor take your suit jacket in at the sides to eliminate excess material from wider shoulders.
Consider low-collared shirts as they help slim you but won’t make you look skinny.
Men with a straight torso.
Wear structured jackets with shoulder pads to broaden your shoulders.
Have a tailor take in the sides of your jacket to give breadth to your shoulders.
Men heavier on top.
Wear unstructured double-breasted jackets.
Definitely go with regular-rise pants.
Men who are bottom heavy.
Wear single-breasted suit jackets.
Structured blazers – and winter jackets – are a must to add shoulder breadth.