The Right Fit For Men

No matter how nice the suit, you’ll look like a schlub if it doesn’t fit correctly. Here M. Jay Singleton, a men’s style consultant with Urban Squire Club, gives the basics on suit fit.

  • Shoulders should lay smoothly, with the seam hitting right where the bone ends.
  • Lapels should reach midway between the collar and the shoulder.
  • Sleeves should fall about a half inch above the end of shirt cuff.
  • Button should close without appearing to burst at the seam.
  • Seat should lay smooth against your behind and hang straight.
  • Pant should gently drape over the top of your shoe.
  • You want an apparent, but minimal break – a small dimple of pant that occurs when your pant lies over your shoes.

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No two bodies are the same. Use the tips here as a guide and experiment with what works for you. If it looks good, wear it!

Dress Right For Your Body Type

Short Men

Wear vertical stripes and go with a one or two button jacket. Have buttons sit lower.

Opt for low-rise pants, so your waistline can sit at your hips.

Tall Men

Opt for lighter colors as they offer width to a long frame.

Go with a jacket with pockets. “It adds visual interest,” says Singleton.

Regular-rise pants are best.

Men With Bigger Midsections

Dark colors and lighter-weight fabrics work well.

Wear solids or vertical stripes.
“Pinstripes draw the eye up and down and detract from the circumference,” says Singleton.

Muscular Men

Think two button jackets. Have a tailor take your suit jacket in at the sides to eliminate excess material from wider shoulders.

Consider low-collared shirts as they help slim you but won’t make you look skinny.

Men with a straight torso.

Wear structured jackets with shoulder pads to broaden your shoulders.

Have a tailor take in the sides of your jacket to give breadth to your shoulders.

Men heavier on top.

Wear unstructured double-breasted jackets.

Definitely go with regular-rise pants.

Men who are bottom heavy.

Wear single-breasted suit jackets.

Structured blazers – and winter jackets – are a must to add shoulder breadth.